Letters from France - 17th July 1947

We didn't go to the dance on the evening of the 14th. They were dancing on the dusty ground, and it would have been horrible. We looked round the town, and saw the town hall lit up, and then went to bed, as we had to get up at 6.30 to catch the train to Paris next morning. It was a business visit for Lucette, so we didn't see very much of Paris, leaving early Wednesday morning, but we shall go again before I leave. We spent the morning going to the Swiss Consul and finding a hotel, and during the afternoon I slept while L. went again to the S.C.; then in the early evening we wandered round a Jardin des Plantes, where there is also a zoo, and a zoological museum, near the college of scientific studies of the Paris University.

We then had supper with the cartoonist, who had travelled up with us, and has a room in Paris (I think I mentioned him coming on the picnic), after which we all three went to the theatre. It didn't begin till after 9 p.m. and finished 11.30. It was "Georges et Margaret", a comedy, and has been played in London. What I understood I enjoyed very much. After that, at an hour when most of London is abed - or what life there is, is not on view! - we wandered down les Grands Boulevards, and drank an iced fruit drink at one of the pavement cafés, and criticized the passers by. The cafés begin to pack up about midnight, it seems, but there are still sweet stalls and rifle ranges and on along the streets.

The "Metro" or Tube is much less comfortable than ours. Wooden seats and few of them, catering more for standing. However, there is only one price of ticket and one can go as far as one wishes. The buses also have wooden sets. One gets in from the back, where there is a sort of bay without windows, for standing, and one passes thro' this to the seats.

We stayed in a hotel for the night, where we paid about 8/- for a nice airy room with a double bed, basin, and three big windows. We had to give up food tickets even for bread and sugar for breakfast. The bread in Paris is yellow, being made from maize. One is not allowed to use hot water systems in the summer.

As for Paris the centre of fashion, tho' we weren't in the "West End", it doesn't appear that there are any more fashionable women about than in London, which I rather expected. The shoes are of awfully bad quality - hardly a pair of real leather. But I think the people of a town never reflect to any large extend the fashions of that town's leading creators. One certainly never sees much walking about in London - for which I suppose export is largely responsible.


We had to get up early Wednesday morning to meet Mme Durand returning my a night train from Grenoble. Even by 8 am the cafés are doing business again. We drove back by car which was very pleasant, tho' we were six in all, and it was another scorching day! I've no idea how hot, as the papers don't seem to occupy themselves with quoting temperatures as ours do.

This afternoon I went over the factory with Lucette and her father - it makes artificial leather, and also felt and cardboard. It was very interesting, hot, and rather smelly. I have brought away some souvenirs! I managed to understand some of the process, tho' what with the noise of the machines, and the explanation being in French, it was very difficult.

People keep saying that I haven't "l'air Anglais", but myself I don't see that there is really much difference between French and English - not enough to say that, anyway. I must find out what they understand by "l'air Anglais".

19th July -

Your card came this morning - many thanks. We are scorching here too at the moment - but I daresay it won't last long.

One doesn't use the surname here in direct address - in fact it is considered less than polite. In general most of a greeting is swallowed except "... dame" or "... selle". One never greets anyone, even for the second, 3rd or 4th time in a day, without some enquiry such as "How goes it", and one seldom parts without a wish for a "bon soirée", "bon appetit" or "bon promenade".

I shall see Hazel West, the friend of Lucette's neighbour for about 5 days, which is nice.

I am going to Paris next week to see the sights with the cartoonist, as Lucette is working again in the week now. He should be an amusing and stimulating guide.

I am bringing an amusing mascot back with me, but I shan't tell you what it is - just hope that you will not disapprove. (No, it's not a husband, tho' Arsène - the cartoonist - is threatening to come to England to demand my hand from "Mrs Ride"!) I am afraid my ideas about silk stockings and so on you won't come to much - and I don't know whether I shall have time for buying presents anyway - there being nothing interesting at Pont.

Ah, well, nearly dinner time. Au revoir. Love,

Judith